Lanvin
For amazing behind-the-scenes pics of this amazing show, complete with detailed shots of stunning garments, see gorgeous Nathalie's blog 'I Have Spread My Dreams Under Your Feet' . There were several pieces to Alber Elbaz's collections that made me furrow my brow, but most were so exquisitely beautiful:
Rick Owens
Puffers (down-filled wraps), biker jackets (slick to the ribs, and zippered up one side), hoodies (conceptual versions with geometric horn appliqués), and fur vests (kangaroo at the less expensive end, full-length mink at the ultra).
Aquilano.Rimondi
I have been eagerly waiting to see what Aquilano.Rimondi would be showing next, since their Milan FW SS'10 collection, which I absolutely adored. The duo did not forsake the embellished look that's become their signature, but adapted it to stay current, as wearable daywear. The palette was soft: dusty pink, gray-blue, violet, peachy ivory (nudes were quite prevalent at Milan Fashion Week AW'10). They paired snug cabled cashmere sweaters with be-feathered pencil skirts or low-slung handmade tweed trousers. They frayed the edges of their tweed skirtsuits and coats and studded the shoulders with smatterings of crystals. The effect was still rich, but a much more subtle than last season, including a pair of gorgeous nude wool crepe sheaths, elegantly unadorned but for a floppy bow at the hip or neckline. Mostly, the silhouette was close to the body and ultra-streamlined.
I have been eagerly waiting to see what Aquilano.Rimondi would be showing next, since their Milan FW SS'10 collection, which I absolutely adored. The duo did not forsake the embellished look that's become their signature, but adapted it to stay current, as wearable daywear. The palette was soft: dusty pink, gray-blue, violet, peachy ivory (nudes were quite prevalent at Milan Fashion Week AW'10). They paired snug cabled cashmere sweaters with be-feathered pencil skirts or low-slung handmade tweed trousers. They frayed the edges of their tweed skirtsuits and coats and studded the shoulders with smatterings of crystals. The effect was still rich, but a much more subtle than last season, including a pair of gorgeous nude wool crepe sheaths, elegantly unadorned but for a floppy bow at the hip or neckline. Mostly, the silhouette was close to the body and ultra-streamlined.
Maurizio Pecoraro
Maurizio Pecoraro also had the dusty pales seemed to be the theme on the Fall runways. Lush fabrics and beautiful tailoring was also on show:
Gabriele Colangelo
Gabriele Colangelo is a relative newcomer, who debuted in February 2008, and whose first passion is fabric, focusing his attention on it as well as on new techniques. His AW'10 collection had a coolly elegant color palette of grays, beiges, and icy whites, and provided a starting point for his deeply tactile materials, which were inspired by an idea of erosion and rocks. Among them: the richly textured, fissured wool he used for the opening leather-belted wrap coat; the chiffon trapped between double layers of organza that became a softly draped shift; and the charcoal flannel he twisted and tucked to evoke swirls of marble on an otherwise simple dress. Loved the outerwear once again, as well as his entire collection, and will definitely be keeping an eye on his work to come.
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